Whenever assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of north London.
This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors utterly shocked.
“I’m totally surprised,” states the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest shop earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.
The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.
However, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.
It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.
It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.
Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.
It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.
“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.
Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.
A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.
This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary achievement.
Elena Vance is a tech strategist with over a decade of experience in digital transformation and business analytics.