Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city is no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to learn these narratives and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
